The annual in-cosmetics exhibitions offer insights into beauty manufacturing trends. By looking at new ingredient launches – along with recent patents and academic research – it is possible to see into the future of cosmetics innovation. Anti-ageing continues to be a major force in all beauty categories. Within the skin care segment – which leads the industry in volume and trends – there are four key directions. This exclusive report, supported by Euromonitor International and authored by global skincare analyst Nica Lewis for the in-cosmetics Group, reviews them and highlights potential areas for future growth.
Iranian consumers are expected to be one of the new forces driving growth in the anti-ageing sector, according to this report. Highlighting new figures from Euromonitor International, ‘Revealing the Future of Anti-ageing Skincare’ shows that retail sales of anti-agers in Iran are expected to rise almost a third to US$29.8m by 2020. Strong growth is also expected in the Indian and Indonesian markets, where CAGR from 2014-2015 was 17.8 percent and 15 percent respectively.
Products with anti-ageing benefits will be hugely influential across all beauty categories. Focusing on the skincare segment – which leads the industry in volume and trends – the report has identified four areas that will be key to achieving the reported growth:
Scientists are currently analysing the role of sirtuins in epigenetics – the field that studies external or environmental changes to genes. Research already shows how sirtuins act on ageing and inflammation. Lewis believes that further genetic mapping of the functional relationships between and among sirtuins will influence future cosmetic science developments.
The link between stress, brain, gut and skin is another interesting area for development, with research showing how physical, environmental and/or psychological stress can trigger inflammation in the stomach or on the skin. A greater understanding of the effect of stress is expected to usher in a new generation of skincare products and treatments.
Air pollution has hit critical levels in Beijing, Delhi and Karachi, among other major cities, and kills more than three million people per year. Besides contributing to premature deaths, particulate matter, traffic fumes and smog are also considered skin aggressors and can cause wrinkles. This has driven beauty brands to strengthen the protection function of many skin care products and is leading to the creation of exciting new formulations.
Cosmetics ingredient suppliers are helping manufacturers seize this opportunity by offering actives that claim to protect against the effects of pollution. IBR, Lipotec, Ashland, Dow Corning, ID Bio, Sederma and Symrise are just some of the leading players that have recently launched new pollution protection ingredients.
Since Botox hit the aesthetic market in the 1990s, there has been a quest to replicate its wrinkle-smoothing effects in a non-invasive skin care product. The advent of topical botulinum toxin is nigh, although there will be a need to comply with local regulations on both application and availability. Robust growth is expected for peptides because of their dependable performance and efficacy. New peptides based on Nobel prize-winning research and anti-ageing hormones are already appearing.
Whether from land or sea, plant-based anti-ageing actives have long served as an effective bridge for consumers and brands seeking a more natural look and/or formulations. Increasing consumer demand for products that are sustainably sourced will put added pressure on brands to develop innovative products that meet their requirements.
According to Nica Lewis, who authored the report on behalf of in-cosmetics, growth in anti-ageing skincare will also be shaped by broader trends in regulation, sustainability and technology. ‘Regulation will continue to dictate the pace of innovation in anti-ageing skin care. Pending legislative changes for functional ingredients and testing will impact formulations in all beauty categories.
‘Brands will also be challenged on their manufacturing processes and use of resources like water and forest products. More beauty companies and suppliers are integrating social and environmental sustainability into their strategy and operations. The new UN Sustainable Development Goals on water, consumption, oceans and forests will give the industry further impetus to responsibly manage resources.’
Technology will also be instrumental in the development of the market, as Irina Barbalova, global lead - beauty and personal care, Euromonitor International, explains: ‘Beyond novel ingredients and formulations, the increasing penetration of skin diagnostic tools, at-home devices and technology to further personalise product solutions is leading the next frontier of anti-ageing developments.
‘We’ve already seen a number of anti-ageing devices enter the market, including Tria Beauty’s FDA approved age-defying at home laser device, OKU Personal Skin Coach, the world’s first iPhone connected personal skin scanning device, and Romy Paris – an at-home device, which works by adding highly concentrated active ingredients contained in capsules to a reserve of serum or cream depending on a user’s needs.’
For R&D and marketing professionals in the beauty and personal care industry, the forthcoming in-cosmetics events in South Korea, Asia, Latin America and North America will provide opportunities to discover trends and ingredients that will shape new ideas.
Lucy Gillam, Director of the in-cosmetics Group, commented: ‘Anti-ageing is one of the most dynamic areas of the cosmetics industry. While it will take some time to implement the science outlined in the report, particularly when it comes to epigenetics, it gives manufacturers a clear idea of where the innovation lies. Pollution remains a huge issue across the world and with more crises on the horizon, it’s vital that manufacturers look for innovative ingredients to protect against environmental factors and therefore reduce the signs of ageing.’
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