As consumers’ demands change and their expectations increase, Dr Barbara Brockway looks at where colour cosmetics are headed.
The segment has become globalised in many ways yet there is a clear need to develop make-up, and foundations in particular, which match consumers’ various skin tones worldwide. Providing tailor-made products in line with individual market specifications is important. This is especially true for South Africa, where IMCD’s local technicians work closely with its formulation experts at its excellence centre in Italy. Together they use the latest available materials to develop innovative make-up ideally suited to the needs of South African consumers.
Colour cosmetics find their inspiration on fashion runways. With the increasingly trendy cooler and softer tones taking their cue from nature, it’s not surprising to see natural ingredients also gaining in popularity. To match this key trend, Alban Muller International has developed powdered Ami-caps from natural botanical extracts for colour cosmetics. Ami-caps are non-hygroscopic powders based on high adsorbing silica. They hold the precise natural activity found in liquid extracts with matching properties. Variants Ami-cap Tepescohuite and Ami-cap Red Vine are ideal for providing anti-ageing, antioxidant and soothing properties to make-up products, including pressed powders.
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Value proposition remains top of mind among consumers which is why the popularity of BB, CC, DD creams show no sign of slowing down. A BB cream is the modern make-up offering. It acts as a primer, tinted moisturiser and concealer. It brightens, may contain UV filters and is often loaded with various actives to aid healing, while providing soothing and anti-ageing benefits.
In response to growing market demands, ingredient suppliers are continually developing multifunctional solutions for formulators seeking to innovate. IMCD represents Color Techniques, which was one of the first manufacturers to recognise the need for natural functional ingredients for make-up. In its herbal skin enhancers (HSE) portfolio, the manufacturer offers natural surface treatments on talc, sericite and inorganic pigments (yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide or on titanium dioxide) with mandarin orange or green tea, to provide antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits.
Another multifunctional offering from IMCD is Wacker’s Belsil range of dimethicones and dimethiconols, which are said to form a breathable barrier layer on the skin and provide radiance benefits.
Because brands demand functional and greener biotechnology, materials such as Zemea 1.3 propanediol from DuPont Tate & Lyle are being used increasingly in make-up. Zemea is not only a more eco-friendly option to propylene and butylenes glycol, it also boasts preservative boosting and moisturisation properties.
Grant Industries is another supplier wowing the colour cosmetics segment with a newly developed and highly sophisticated technology. Building on its stellar reputation with polysilicone-11, the company has established dispersions made with extreme shear. This SiW range of fine dispersions with exquisite feel and a delightful break-point includes InvisaSkin, which enables the extra-long lasting claim in products (another property the consumer expects).
In a stroke of genius, Grant Industries recently re-launched Gransil SiW-7100, which is a dispersion of Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether (MPBE). MPBE is deemed a ‘fascinating fluid’ as it carries oxygen, as wire carries electricity, and oxygen therapy lends itself perfectly well to colour cosmetics.
To meet the growing need for potent active blends suitable for functional colour cosmetics, IMCD is proud to be associated with ingredient suppliers worldwide which develop leading complex blends.
The Granactive range includes a formulated powder combining honey extract (to calm inflamed skin) with a peptide technology (Hexapeptide-14) specifically designed for the cosmetic treatment of rosacea (Granactive-1423).
About the author
Dr Barbara Brockway (PhD) is the immediate past president of the Society of Cosmetic Science (UK and Ireland). In 1993, she joined The Body Shop and in 2000, moved to New York to manage Collaborative Laboratories’ new ingredient development team, after which she returned to the UK to work for IMCD as its scientific advisor.