Coschem lecture inspires new ideas in hair colouring and makeup

Hair and make-up trends and technology lectureOn 25 August, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa (Coschem) hosted a morning lecture on hair and makeup trends and technology. Kim MacCallum, sales executive from Vantage shared this report.

Patricia Kruger from Sensient Colors presented on the topic of advanced surface treatment technology and how it enables trendy hair and colour cosmetics. Kruger spoke about hair colour trends and how the temporary colour market has experienced immense growth. These are typically colours that last one to two or three to four washes. This growth can be attributed to a few reasons, one being baby boomers are going grey and are looking at keeping their hair colour fresh. Another is consumers looking for products that are easier to use and less damaging. Fashion and trends have also played a huge role with people having more access to the Internet and YouTube.  

Pigments and pearl technology

Temporary hair colours can be achieved using normal food grade dyes but these are difficult to work with as they are messy and unstable. The best would be to go for pigment or pearl technology. This technology offers great shades, excellent coverage and bold colours, but most pigments need to be milled and they can agglomerate if not incorporated properly. 

Kruger also discussed surface treated pigments and how they are achieved through coating, chemical reactions, electrostatic exposure and absorbed compounds. Coated pigments are treated in such a way that they end up being hydrophobic, hydrophilic or a combination of hydrophilic and lipophilic. Either of these states can be achieved through various treatments that involve silicones, silanes, amino acids and waxes.

The benefits of these pigments include easy application, improved product feel, better performance and new product formats like hair varnishes etc.

Popular products around the world

Some of the more popular hair and makeup products popping up around the world include pressed powders and hair chalks. We have seen these in South Africa which use sponges and applicators. Aerosol products, used as root concealers and to touch up greys, are also growing rapidly. Here you would use a hydrophobic pigment – probably one that has an amino acid coat. For aqueous varnishes, similar to hair mascaras, you would use hydrophilic pigments or pearls.

Kruger also showed delegates hair chalk sticks, which look like lipsticks in an oily medium that are very easy to use.

Another interesting and growing trend is beard dying. Men are actually colouring their beards as it’s the first place where greying occurs, showing their age. An interesting concept was a barber polish, which is a coloured beard wax that not only nourishes but also gives a healthy shine and rich colour to the beard. Kruger included a photo of a guy in her presentation who had the mermaid trend done on his hair and beard using greens and blues which was very colourful.

She also had samples of some of the ideas for delegates to try and apply. Interactive sessions such as this are always very well received as delegates get to interact with the products and solutions by trying the different applications in their own hair.


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