Chemyunion introduces new products for skin and hair health

A photo of Chemyunion’s stand at the in-cosmetics exhibition Chemyunion has launched a variety of functional ingredients and actives at in-cosmetics Global 2018. The company focused on a broad range of consumer groups and market demands, from male grooming and hair care to far-reaching solutions for preservation and emulsion stability.

Chemyunion is represented in South Africa by Chemgrit SA.

Straighten and protect hair with Seriliss RA

Since straight hair has become popular all over the world, several products were launched in the market to meet consumers’ needs. Alkaline relaxers were introduced to the market in the 40s delivering permanent performance for Afro-ethnic hair. However, besides being difficult to rinse off, those solutions could cause hair breakage, scalp and skin burns due to their high pH.

Formaldehyde found its place bringing benefits for curly and wavy hair. Due to the surprising shiny and natural-looking hair results, it soon became the main chemical process for straightening. Despite the benefits, it was considered a risk to human health and forbidden in several countries. Once again, the market lacked an ingredient that would give consumers the straight hair they desired.

The era of acid straighteners followed, replacing formaldehyde and without health risks. The only limitations of these straighteners are a reduced straightening effect and hair damage.

New tests using Raman technology to evaluate hair structure allowed Chemyunion to create an innovative solution that meets consumers´ needs. Seriliss RA straightens and protects hair simultaneously with superior and proven performance. This effect is possible due to a highly effective protein complex that promotes the preservation of cystine and permeation of sericin – a double mechanism of action responsible for increasing hair strength.

Multifunctional active for male grooming

The global male grooming segment is expected to reach US$ 166 billion by 2022. When developing formulations for this category, physiological and morphological differences of male skin must be taken into consideration.

Facial and body hair, in addition to extra sebum production, increases the chances of intrafollicular permeation and inflamed acne lesions in male skin. Men’s cosmetics should also consider the possibility of a higher incidence of allergic reactions and irritation to products containing many ingredients.

In this context, minimalist and multifunctional formulations are an interesting strategy for male grooming formulations as well as ease of use and convenience. 4MAN is a natural and multifunctional solution with four effects in a single active ingredient. It can handle excessive oily skin while reducing signs of ageing, promotes moisturising and has smoothing properties, which are attractive benefits for men.

4MAN, developed by Chemyunion, is composed of a synergetic combination of hop, liquorice, red algae extract, Gallic rose, panthenol and menthol, especially designed to meet the needs of male skin.

New antimicrobial agent Hebeatol CG

Preservatives are frequently associated with negative press. Quaternium-15 and formaldehyde are among the top ten allergens – based on prevalence rate and clinical significance – listed in 2013 by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG). Four other preservatives – diazolidinyl urea (DIAZ), parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT)/methylisothiazolinone (MIT) – are among the top 20 allergens also listed by NACDG, which results in usage restrictions imposed by global regulatory agencies.

Indeed, consumer exposure to a list of preservative substances that is increasingly shorter can result in a higher incidence of primary sensitisation, as the same preservative is used in a wide range of cosmetics products concomitantly.

This creates a paradox for formulators, as it is increasingly difficult to reduce allergic reactions and contact dermatitis in the medium and long-term based on a little-diversified palette of preservatives.

There are few safe alternatives that can meet the needs of these professionals. Recent developments include sugar, fatty acid and amino acid-derived ingredients, with excellent biological compatibility, also contributing to the sensorial experience and stability of cosmetics formulations, functioning as emollients, humectants, solubilisers and coemulsifiers.

Hebeatol CG is a new functional ingredient acting as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, providing formulators with greater chances of diversification in terms of product preservation. With a great synergetic combination of xylitol esters and caprylyl glycol, Hebeatol CG is compatible with several cosmetics formulations which are great for micellar waters, wet wipes and mascaras.

Developed by Chemyunion, Hebeatol CG complements the Hebeatol range, which includes Hebeatol Plus, Hebeatol BA and Hebeatol PS VG versions.

Versatile cold process emulsion

Overcoming all the inherent instabilities of an emulsion is a complex task. The most common practice to solve this challenge is by using a high concentration of surfactants, high temperature and constant high shear. Producing fluid emulsions with high oil content is even more difficult.

Existing technologies offer limited possibilities to solve this problem. There are few solutions on the market that allow for different sensory properties, cold processing, fluid emulsions and guarantee good stability. Combining all these requirements, Chemyunion has developed Powderfeel WR.

This innovative ingredient has been created to facilitate the formulation of multiple textures from fluid to butter in a cold process. It is an O/W emulsifier based on Pickering emulsion technology, which supports cold development with high stabilisation efficiency, as well as reducing environmental impact and processing costs. It also enables the development of minimalist formulas.

Powderfeel WR’s lipid crystals are finely divided and interfacially adsorbed, which allow the stabilisation of high oil concentration and the reduction of skin irritation due to minimisation of the surfactant content.


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