Tracking fragrance trends with Payan Bertrand

A variety of fine fragrances packaged in glass bottles IMAGE Scent is integral to brand DNA. This is according to Marie-Eugénie Bouge, marketing and communication director of Payan Bertrand – a fragrances and flavours manufacturer based in France and represented in South Africa by Natchem.

Discussing the role of perfumery in personal care product development, Bouge says that brand code control is essential to a fragrance development manager to offer dedicated fragrances, which are harmonious with a brand’s values. ‘As for packaging, fragrance is also a way to differentiate on over-crowded shelves, helping a product stand out.’

Formulated to reinforce the marketing positioning of products and their efficacy, perfume is a sure way of ensuring repeat buyers. For example, in cosmetics the multiplication of aquatic floral scents evokes the action of moisturisation. In hair care, the use of oriental and honey fragrances enhances ‘nutrition’ and ‘repairing’ claims.

Developments to keep an eye on

‘The current perfumery trends encompass hedonism, specifically in body care and toiletries, where the quest of sensorial experiences will be sublimated by fragrances,’ Bouge explains. ‘The invitation to travel is evoked by exotic and solar scents; relaxation is conveyed with the use of green aquatic notes; and a sense of tonifying is enhanced by citrus aromas.’

Consumers’ growing awareness of environmental issues is also driving brands to focus more on natural and sustainable ingredients. Payan Bertrand offers a variety of solutions to customers and perfumers to meet their sustainability targets and green formulation needs. ‘These include a selection of premium ingredients such as our Indonesian Terimakasih range of exotic essential oils and specialities developed to guarantee the quality of the products combined with the improvement of living conditions of the local farmers and economic stability of the country,’ she says.

All of these factors are driving developments among perfumers to reinvent creativity. ‘Poly-sensoriality’ is one of the foremost expectations of consumers and Bouge says that it’s the expertise of fragrance houses which will allow brands to translate desired emotions through perfumes.

New opportunities for innovation

‘Obvious in the field of personal care – through an invitation of sensorial pleasure or a return to childhood memories – creativity is also growing in the air care segment with the rise of olfactive marketing,’ she explains. Beyond the ornamental value, a desire to create a haven of peace within the home is driving developments in the home fragrances segments with scented candles, reed diffusers and air sprays being among the newest innovations on the market. Diffusing cocooning perfumes with relaxing, tonifying and sensual properties or those that evoke happy childhood memories act as a peaceful balm for the mind and body.


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