The talent of a perfumer is to transform many insights coming from his/her personal life into a fragrance that will act as a witness of a period.
‘Olfactive trends are only the “olfactive” translation of socio trends,’ says Yann Guery, Fine Fragrance EAME marketing director at Symrise. ‘Indeed, you can understand the spirit of a decade thanks to the successful fragrances.’ Nowadays, according to Guery, for feminine olfactive, there are many trends, among them:
Addiction - through fruitiness and edible notes. A few decades ago, the trend was initiated by Escadasumme (exotic fruits cocktail) and Thierry Mugler’s Angel (chocolate). After an attempt to bring saltiness to the fragrance market (Womanity), brands and consumers gave in to fruity and sweet gourmandise. The trend targets young adults and is based on the idea that consumers need reassurance, and fruity and edible notes bring a childhood reminiscence and possibly even a brief ‘escape’ back to those times.
The olfactive families in these fragrances are Floral fruity, Floriental fruity, Chypre fruity and Fruity Floral.
Retro-revival - brighten up and modernise pillars and new archetypes. The rise of the Niche perfumery demonstrated that consumers are ready for forgotten raw materials (success of By Killian and Tom Ford collections, as well as Cuir Amethyst from Armani privé) and structures (Cologne de Dior).
Symrise likens perfumery to a soft femininity, with the willingness to always feel different. The retro-revival fulfils the need of consumers to move away from frivolousness and come across with a reassuring quality. To do this, fragrances need to get rid of the ‘little girl effect’, turning them more classic, elegant and giving increased character.
Floral floral (rose, violet), spicy (carnation) and white and orange florals; Chypre (leathery); and Citrus family are the genres for this fragrance. This version of ‘Citrus’ is a new cologne reinterpretation in which the freshness is getting warmer and ‘dressed up for the evening’, giving silage and long lastingness.